Summary: Emergency preparation for cruising or live-aboard sailors. Topics include: Knowing your position, being seen and heard, first aid, man overboard, heave-to, emergency steering, plugging holes, fire!, abandoning ship, running aground, runaway diesel, torn sails, flat batteries, etc.
You may want to check out our Selected Books section under the Cruising - How To Cruise category for books covering the things you'll need to think about to help prepare for the emergency scenarios presented below.
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Trouble can strike at any time, and on a boat far from help and in a hostile
environment, things can get serious quickly.
It's best to prepare yourself and your boat for trouble in advance so that
you'll quickly know what to do to help yourself, and you'll have the tools and
skills to do it.
I've broken my thoughts on emergency preparedness down into two general sections
below:
General Readiness for more generic pre-planning and
“What to do if…” scenarios with practical how-to ideas.
General Readiness
Be Able to Make Yourself Heard
Be Able to Retrieve an Overboard Crew
Have an Alternate Means of Turning The Rudder
If You Can’t Save The Boat
Know Your Position:
Make sure you always know your position, can find it quickly, or at least have
accurate course/speed/time notes in your log so you can calculate a DR position.
Have an alternate means of getting your position in case of equipment failure –
keep a back-up handheld GPS stored away in a safe location in case your primary
fails for some reason. Consider storing it in a metal box or even in the oven
(when not in use!) as that may save it if it was a lightning strike that knocked
out your other electronics. The metal box acts as a Faraday Cage to shield the
contents from the strong electro-magnetic field that the lightning strike
causes.
Carry a sextant, almanac, tables, and instructions if you’re going offshore, and
if coastal cruising, know how get a fix by sighting shore-based charted objects
and buoys.
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Emergency Signaling - Be Able to Make Yourself Seen:
Have your emergency signaling equipment ready to go, easy-to-reach, up-to-date,
and make sure everyone aboard knows where it’s located and how to operate it. Be
sure to give hands-on lessons to those that are new to the equipment.
It’s also wise to carry a selection of devices – aerial rockets and/or a flare
gun for night time use (red twin star for distress signaling, white star for
non-distress alerting others of your position), smoke for daytime use, dye to
make spotting from the air easier, and a selection of hand-launched signals as
well.
Carry more than just the bare minimum number required by law – if you’re in a
situation where you need to use them, you’ll probably appreciate not having to
be miserly with them.
As your signaling devices expire, replace them with fresh ones to stay legal and
use them as your primary devices, but hang on to your older stuff for a few
years as well – as long as they have been kept dry, they’ll work long after the
expiry date.
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Emergency Signaling - Be Able to Make Yourself Heard:
Have a few different sound-signaling devices. A ship’s bell is a good thing to
have, and is very ‘salty’. An air horn, either electrically-operated, or
compressed air, is excellent and can be heard a long way off. It’s a good idea
for every crew member to have a pea-less whistle attached to their PFD as well.
While not legally required for pleasure craft, the wide availability and low
cost of marine VHF radios makes them essential equipment for all but the
smallest boats, in my opinion.
These days, the VHF radio is the primary means of communications between vessels
and between vessels and the Coast Guard. Having one aboard will allow you to
communicate immediately in an emergency and will alert you if someone else needs
help and is close enough for you to assist. They’re also a great way of keeping
up with what’s going on in your area socially as well as with local hazards to
navigation and weather.
Show all your crew its basic operation. At a minimum they’ll need to know how to
turn it on, switch to channel 16, key the mic, and make a call.
Have instructions and a Mayday call script posted by your main VHF radio – if in
a panic the crew forget how to use the radio or the name of the boat, the
instructions will be right there for them.
Have an alternate means of communication – perhaps handheld VHF (very handy for
communicating between the dinghy and the main boat), and/or an emergency antenna
in case the mast-mounted antenna stops working (loss of the mast would do it!).
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Have a Way to Plug Holes:
Most boats have a number of through-hull fittings, with nothing but a piece of
hose separating the boat from the water.
Make sure each through-hull fitting has a seacock that can be shut off in case a
hose leaks or needs to be replaced.
Make sure you have a softwood plug (generally cone-shaped to fit a variety of
hole sizes) that fits each through-hull fitting. Ideally, have one tied directly
to each through-hull – that way it’s immediately handy.
For larger holes or irregularly shaped punctures or cracks, have a collision mat
ready to go. A purpose-built, dedicated, collision mat is probably best, but a
storm jib can be successfully employed as well. The idea is to place the
collision mat over the hole on the outside of the hull using ropes attached at
its corners to hold it in place. The water pressure will press the mat firmly
against the hull in the area of the hole and slow the flood while repairs can be
made.
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Know Basic First Aid:
At least one person aboard should take some first aid courses and be able to
handle the most common cuts, sprains, burns, CPR, and rescue breathing. Make
sure you’ve got a well-stocked first aid kit with painkillers and ointments that
are within their expiry limit. Everyone aboard should know the location of the
first aid kit.
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Be Able to Retrieve an Overboard Crew:
Practice picking up a simulated overboard crew by using an old fender with a
loop of rope attached to it. Under various points of sail, drop it overboard and
practice sailing back to it so that the boat stops alongside close enough to
snag it with a boathook.
Practice under power as well. Make sure at least one crew member can also do
this – it may be you that’s in the water!
Have a means of getting an injured overboard crew back on deck (devices such as
a LifeSling or a home-brewed block and tackle arrangement), and make sure
everyone knows how to do it.
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Know How to Stop The Boat:
Practice heaving-to with your boat. Every boat is different, so practice this
sail configuration with your own to find the way that works best for you. This
can be important if you need a rest, if you need a stable platform to effect
repairs, if you need to wait until daylight before making landfall, and
depending on conditions, if you need to ride out a storm in the safety of the
cabin.
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Emergency Steering - Have an Alternate Means of Turning The Rudder:
If your steering gear fails, you’ll want to have an emergency tiller ready to
deploy. This is the sort of thing that should be prepared, fitted, and tested
while still at the dock, and practiced with while under way so that you know how
to set it up when trouble strikes.
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Make sure you've got smoke detectors and enough fire extinguishers aboard, and make sure the crew knows their locations and how to use them. Have an evacuation plan that includes an alternate exit, and make sure the crew knows that the optional exit is available (they may not think to use the forward hatch on their own in a panic, for example).
Engine fires are particularly dangerous because of the proximity of fuel, heavy electrical wiring that can short out and add to the problem, and water intake hoses that can melt and flooding dangers to the situation.
In the event of an engine fire, it can be a real hazard to open the engine access panel, exposing yourself to the flames, and allowing a fresh supply of air to the fire. Consider installing a through-bulkhead fitting with a cover in one of the engine compartment panels so that in the event of a fire, the nozzle of the extinguisher can be jammed into the through-bulkhead hole, and the extinguisher emptied into the compartment without having to open the panel.
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If You Can’t Save The Boat:
When underway, have a waterproof 'ditch bag' ready to go. It should be kept
handy to the companionway and everyone aboard should know its location. Things
to include in it might consist of the ship’s papers, passports and other
important papers of everyone aboard, a selection of flares and other signaling
devices, dried snack food, bottled water, handheld marine VHF radio, small first
aid kit, small compass, waterproof wristwatch, pencil and notepad, etc.
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A Mast Stay Breaks, i.e. Forestay
You Have a Runaway Diesel Engine
The Batteries Are Too Low to Start the Engine
You Tear Your Mainsail
A Rope gets Wrapped Around the Prop
You Need to Ditch Your Anchor/Chain Quickly
You lose steering:
If you lose your rudder or your steering gear fails, there are several possible
ways of steering well enough to either gain control of the boat in order to make
repairs easier or to get you to harbour (or at least close enough for a tow):
Use sail balance and trim to steer the boat. Particularly with longer-keeled
boats this is a viable option, but it can also be done with many well balanced
fin/spade boats. This requires some practice to get the hang of it, but here’s
the basic theory:
The boat’s center of lateral resistance can be thought of as the pivot point
about which the boat turns. Its center of effort is the point at which the
forces of the sails combine to push the boat sideways. If the center of effort
is forward of the center of lateral resistance with the wind on the starboard
side, the boat will want to turn to port. If it is to stern, the boat will turn
to starboard.
Since the center of lateral resistance is designed into the hull and can’t be
changed (unless your boat has dagger-boards that can be raised, or a movable
keel), the trick is to manipulate the center of effort of the sails.
The center of effort can be moved forward by hardening the jib and loosening the
main, thus causing the forward sail to exert relatively more sideways force than
the aft one, effectively moving the average/combined center of sideways force
forward.
Likewise, the center of effort can be moved towards the stern by easing the jib
and hardening the main (or, with even more effect, the mizzen, if you’ve got a
ketch or yawl).
If your boat is nimble enough and your timing is excellent, it is even possible
to tack through the wind in this way; if not, gibing it around to the opposite
tack is more easily accomplished.
It’s a good skill to have, can be fun to practice, and can come in very handy –
I managed to sail from Port Credit to Hamilton, right into my slip that way once
when the fitting attaching the tiller to the rudder shaft failed on one of my
previous boats.
If steering via sail balance isn't suitable for your boat, or the conditions are so bad that more control is needed, another alternative (preferably used in conjunction with sail balance) is to use an external drag on one side of the boat or the other to cause it want to turn.
This can be accomplished by attaching a small drogue, bucket, coil of rope, or other sturdy object that will cause some resistance while being dragged through the water to the center of a long rope. Attach one end of the rope to a winch on one side of the boat, and the other end to a winch on the other side. Essentially, the drag will ride behind the boat at the apex of the V formed by the rope that's attached to the port and starboard winches.
To steer, it's just a matter of using the winches to pull the drag closer to one
side of the boat or the other. This will put more of the drag's strain on
one winch than the other, and cause the boat to turn in that direction. If
the drag is kept directly behind the boat (the port and starboard lines to the
winches are of equal length), the boat will want to go in a straight line.
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A Mast Stay Breaks, i.e. Forestay:
Immediately change course so that the pressure on that stay (or where that stay
used to be!) is removed. For example, if your forestay lets go, turn downwind so
that all the force is coming from astern and being taken by the backstays. If
your starboard stay breaks, immediately come about and put the wind on the port
side.
If it’s your forestay that has parted, and you have a sail hoisted that is
tacked to the deck, leave the sail up. The luff rope or wire will help hold the
mast up until you can add reinforcements.
Use a spare halyard or drop the main and use the main halyard by clipping it to
the deck as close to the where the broken stay attaches, and use the halyard
winch to tension it. This should stabilize the rig enough to take it out of
immediate danger of coming down and buy you time to effect more permanent
repairs.
I’ve had this happen twice to me on two different boats – both with the
forestay. The first time was a fairly catastrophic failure that very nearly cost
the boat its rig. The second time, the deck fitting failed (cracked), but I
noticed it before it completely let go. Because of that, I now shackle the
forestay to a second strong point on the stem fitting with redundant hardware –
I don’t want a repeat of the incident on the Belle Argo! (Read
the full story here or navigate to it by clicking the Experiences button)
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A Collision Causes a Hole:
If you strike an object while moving at speed, it’s quite possible to put a hole
in the hull. If the location of the hole is to port or starboard (as opposed to
near the center line of the boat), immediately put the boat on the same tack as
the hole and sail close-hauled. The idea is to try to heel the boat over and
lift the hole out of the water. Even lifting it up a foot or so will make a
difference in the water pressure, reducing the inward flow.
If the hole is small and you have access to the hull in that location, you can
try staunching the flow by hammering wedges or softwood plugs into the hole.
With a wooden boat, it may be possible to fasten a piece of plywood over the
affected area with screws.
If it’s larger or you can’t get at it from the inside without ripping out your
cabinetry, it is probably time to deploy your collision mat (or small tarp or
storm jib) to cover the hole and slow the rate of flow.
If your electric bilge pumps are working away, and it looks like it’s going to
be a long time until the leak is stopped, it may be a good idea to start the
engine to keep the batteries topped up.
Once you’ve done what you can to reduce or stop the flow, and have had a chance
to assess your situation, you’ll have some decisions to make based on the
seriousness of the leak, how far you are from harbour and help, and how the
pumps are coping with things.
With the best-case scenario, you’ve managed to stop the leak and can sail to a
nearby harbour for repairs. If, however, the damage is more serious, the weather
bad, etc, it may be time to think about tearing into that cabinetry to get
better access to the damaged area, or even making a distress call and getting
your abandon-ship gear ready. At least with the preliminary steps of slowing the
leak, you’ll have bought yourself as much time as possible for sorting things
out yourself or for help to be notified and/or arrive.
It’s definitely not a pleasant scenario - but better to think about it in
advance so if it were ever to happen you’ll have a clear plan of action to
follow.
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Someone Goes Overboard:
Don’t lose sight of the person: deploy your MOB (“Man OverBoard”) pole,
life ring, seat cushions, or anything else handy to help them stay afloat and
mark the location, get all hands on deck, and start back to their location.
If there are several crew aboard, designate one person whose sole job is to keep
eyes on the MOB at all times and point at them constantly. Even a moment’s
looking away invites the opportunity to lose them in the waves, and the pointing
will help the helmsman track and steer back to them.
Approach under main alone and turn into the wind as you make your final approach
with just enough speed to come alongside and let the wind stop you within reach
of the MOB. Blasting past them won’t help at all, and puts them in danger of
being struck by the boat.
Do you pass to windward or to leeward? Both approaches have their advantages and
disadvantages. If you stop to windward, the boat will drift down to them and
provide somewhat of a lee, but it also poses the danger of running over them.
Stopping to leeward may be safer for the MOB, but if you don’t snag them right
away, the boat may quickly drift out of reach. You’ll have to decide based on
sea conditions, crew availability, the condition of the MOB, and how your boat
responds to the wind/waves.
My own thinking at the moment is that for a MOB who is in good physical
condition and able to swim towards the boat, I’d rather put the boat to leeward
to avoid placing them in any danger or causing injury. If the boat drifts, they
have a fighting chance to keep up by swimming as my boat has a long, deep keel
and tends to drift fairly slowly. If the MOB is injured, then putting the boat
to windward gives the crew a better chance to get a line attached as the boat
will stay alongside.
Either way, you’ve got to practice doing this under sail and power. Using an old
fender with a loop of rope attached works well.
I haven’t had to use these skills in a real emergency yet, but have picked up a
fair number of fenders in my day. I’d appreciate any feedback from those of you
who have had to do this in real circumstances.
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The Boat
Runs Aground:
So you’ve run aground and are stuck – the engine isn’t getting you off the
shoal. What next?
If you’ve got a shallow draft boat or one with a retractable keel, you might be
able to hop out and push, but with a heavier, deeper-keeled boat, this isn’t a
possibility.
With a conventional keel (not a double bilge keel, or a keel with a huge
horizontal wing), when you heel the boat, you reduce the draft since the keel
lifts as the boat leans over. So now you just need to figure a way to do that.
Angi here: I understand heeling the boat, but reducing the draft? What does that
mean and how does one accomplish the other? Dave: The draft is the minimum depth of water the boat needs in order to float. Basically, it’s the distance from the waterline to the lowest part of the keel or hull. Leaning the boat over puts the keel on a bit of an angle instead of hanging down perfectly vertically, and that bit of angle translates to a slight reduction in draft – hopefully just enough to lift the keel off the bottom so that the boat can float free. |
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You Have a Runaway Diesel Engine:
This can happen when the piston rings get worn and lubricating oil flows past
them into the combustion chamber. The engine will actually run on its own oil,
and can start revving faster and faster until it either consumes all its oil and
seizes up or self-destructs. Neither of these outcomes is desirable!
Turning the ignition key off won’t help. Diesels don’t need electricity or
sparks to run – they run on the heat of compression in the cylinders. And
cutting off the diesel fuel supply won’t help either because it’s now running on
its engine oil.
So how do you stop it?
If your engine is equipped with a cylinder decompression lever and you can get
to it safely, you can stop it by decompressing the cylinders. Without cylinder
compression, the oil won’t combust and the engine will stop.
Or you can cut off the air supply. No air = no combustion, and the engine will
stop. Don’t use your hand to do this though! The amount of suction created by a
highly revving diesel engine can be tremendous. Some engines are equipped with a
gate that can be dropped in front of the air intake to cut off the air supply.
Another way is to use a fire extinguisher (CO2 or other gas-based extinguisher).
Discharge the extinguisher into the air intake until the engine stops.
Don’t start the engine again until you service it to correct the source of the
original problem. Otherwise you’ll start the runaway again.
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The Batteries Are Too Low to Start the Engine:
If your engine starting battery is too discharged to start the engine, first try
flipping the battery switch to BOTH so that the house batteries can lend a hand
as well. If that doesn’t work and you have a fixed blade propeller, a trick that
I’ve used may come in handy:
Get the boat moving under sail, the faster the better. Put the transmission into
forward gear. Then try starting the engine again. The pressure of the water on
the prop (especially a 3-bladed prop) will lend quite a bit of torque to the
engine and will assist the batteries in turning it over.
Other alternatives, of course, are to use a hand crank if your engine is
equipped with one, get a boost from a neighbour, fire up a generator for a
while, or wait for your wind generator or solar panels to add enough energy to
get it started.
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You Tear Your Mainsail:
If the tear is horizontal, drop the sail to the reefing point above the tear and
sail on with it reefed. Otherwise, it’s time to unbend it and get the sewing
machine out.
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A Rope gets Wrapped Around the Prop:
Often, the easiest solution is just to swim for it (I employed this method last
summer when the dinghy painter fouled the prop while reversing to set our
anchor). You may be able to unwind
the rope, or you may have to cut it free.
Alternatively, you can try putting the transmission in the opposite gear than it
was in when the fouling happened: slowly crank the engine over – it might just
unwind for you.
There are also products that can be added to the propeller that will cut ropes
as they begin to wind around the prop, and thus avoid the problem altogether.
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You Need to Ditch Your Anchor/Chain Quickly:
If you have an all-chain rhode, the last few feet of it really should be rope.
It should be attached to a strong point in the anchor locker and be long enough
that it reaches up onto the deck.
You’ll never use the short rope portion for anchoring purposes, but if you ever
need to ditch the anchor in a hurry (with a manual windlass such as we have, it
can take quite a while to reel in all our chain), let out all the chain until
the final rope portion comes on deck. Then attach a buoy, preferably with your
boat’s name on it, to the last usable link of chain with a rope long enough to
reach the bottom. Then cut the rope that connects the chain to the chain locker.
You’ll be free of the anchor quickly and easily (much more so than having to
take a hacksaw to the chain or rummage around for heavy bolt cutters), and can
return later to pick up the buoy and your ground tackle.
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David S. Malar and Angelika Jardine. All rights reserved.
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